Polynucleotides under the eyes

The skin beneath the eye is the thinnest on the body, often under half a millimetre deep, with very little fat beneath it and a rich network of small blood vessels. That makes it quick to bruise and slow to hide any irregularity.

It also means the appearance of dark circles has several possible causes: pigment in the skin, visible blue-toned vessels beneath thin skin, a shadow cast by a hollow or by the bony orbital rim, or fluid retention and puffiness. Polynucleotides may help where thin, poor-quality skin is a major contributor. They will do very little for a shadow caused by bone structure or by fat pad descent.

After numbing cream and a medical history check, the practitioner places a small amount of product, typically in the region of half a millilitre to one millilitre across both sides, into the superficial layers of the under-eye skin. Some practitioners use a fine needle to make several small deposits; others prefer a blunt cannula through one or two entry points to reduce bruising risk.

Small raised blebs are visible immediately and usually settle within a few hours to a day. A course of two or three sessions two to four weeks apart is typical, with results assessed about a month after the final session. See how many sessions.

May help: fine crepey lines, dryness and rough texture, skin that looks thin and dull, mild discolouration where thin skin is the cause.

Unlikely to help: a true tear-trough hollow, prominent under-eye fat pads or eye bags, loose excess skin, pigmentation caused by genetics or sun exposure, puffiness driven by sleep, salt or allergies.

A practitioner who examines your face and tells you polynucleotides are not the right treatment for your particular under-eye concern is giving you good advice, not turning down business.

• Small bumps at each injection point: usually a few hours, sometimes a day.
• Redness and mild swelling: 24 to 48 hours.
• Bruising: common in this area, and may last five to ten days. Plan around weddings, holidays and photographs.
• Occasional puffiness for a few days as the product draws in water before settling.

Standard advice is to keep the area clean, avoid make-up for the rest of the day, skip heat, saunas, steam and strenuous exercise for 24 to 48 hours, and sleep slightly elevated for the first night or two. Full guidance is on the aftercare page.

Alongside the general side effects of polynucleotides, the under-eye region carries some particular considerations:

• A higher chance of visible bruising because of the vessel-rich tissue.
• Swelling that is more noticeable and may take longer to settle than elsewhere on the face.
• Small lumps or product visible under very thin skin if it is placed too superficially or unevenly.
• Rarely, injury to a blood vessel. Any injection around the eye carries a very small theoretical risk of vascular complication, which is why practitioner training and anatomical knowledge matter more here than anywhere else on the face.

Seek urgent medical attention if you experience sudden severe pain, blanching or mottling of the skin, or any change to your vision after treatment.